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The Defense of Pure
Riesling
There are times I feel Faulknerian in my love of German
Riesling. Customers often ask me "What is it about
Riesling? Why do people like it? Why do they drink it
at all?" Why, because they like wines with an intensity
of fruit (different from sugar), with a purity of flavor
and aroma-wines that draw one into the glass, inviting
your attention and winning your heart.
I have my own theory of why more people don't like Riesling.
When they try it they like it, and, since Rieslings
are supposed to be sweet, and since sophisticated drinkers
aren't supposed to like sweet wines, they feel guilty
about liking Riesling. I call it my Calvinist Theory
of Riesling. (In my Hobbesian Theory, people would fight
like tigers to drink all the Riesling they could.)
-Robert Harllee, Market Street Wineshops
Winemaker Randall Grahm on Riesling
"Riesling will be the dominant white wine grape
variety of the twenty-first century."
-Randall Grahm, Bonny Doon Winery, Wines &
Spirits Oct. 1999
Importer Terry Theise on Riesling
These are just some of the keenest, spiciest, most
helplessly beautiful wines you can ever drink. The iciest
blade of electric, splashing acidity supports a fruit
so clear, so sharply rendered; the entire experience
is so vivid it makes your toenails laugh! The brothers
Merkelbach are going to have to pad the walls down here
some day, lest I or someone else do himself injury by
bouncing off them. How many wines have ever just made
you LAUGH OUT LOUD, they were so happy and irrepressibly
gorgeous? Who can possibly dislike wines like these???
-Terry speaking of the Merkelbach brothers
As far as we can be certain, we seem to be the only
residents of our planet who can be deeply moved by things
of beauty. So I ask: WHY? Why does this sense exist?
Why might providence wish us to be sensitive to beauty,
with what purpose? And yes, I know it's a metaphysical
speculation, but I'll go out on a limb and give you
my testament of faith.
I believe we feel beauty because it affirms us; there
is a resonance between the objective existence of the
beautiful phenomenon, and the place inside us which
it touches.And that, I would suggest, tells us WE BELONG,
the universe wants us here, there is something we are
put here to do. This is my faith.
Few wines - few things - take us to such places of
faith. Selbach's wines take me there frequently. You
can't identify that slippery little thing soul in wines
by how they look, smell or taste. It's how they make
you feel. It's how deeply they peal and echo. It is
how quickly they leave themselves behind and lead you
elsewhere away from 'wine'.
-Terry speaking of Johannes Selbach
Elvis & Riesling
It has come to my attention that ELVIS drank Liebfraumilch
on his first date with Priscilla in the German town
where he was stationed.
As we all know, ELVIS loved his mother.
Interestingly, "lieb-frau-milch" literally
translates to "love-mother-milk" and bottles
of Liebfraumilch traditionally feature the image of
the mother and child-the Virgin Mary and the baby Jesus.
As we all know, ELVIS loved his mother.
So as he made the first steps away from his sainted
mother and toward his future wife,
ELVIS reaffirmed his special, maternal bond by drinking
Liebfraumilch.
And, as we all know, ELVIS loved his mother.
-Robert Harllee, Market Street Wineshops
Note: Liebfraumilch is made from the Riesling
grape.
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